The glaciers, Fox and Franz Joseph

Left Wanaka to a crisp, sunny, beautiful day. Would have loved to spend one more day here but there is a lot of country to cover. We drove 45 minutes with Lake Wanaka on our left (the road hugs the lake so it twists and turns), then 45 minutes with Lake Hawwea on the right. Then an abrupt turn west to towards the coast. we stopped and did a short hike to Blue Pools. suddenly, the mountains were gone and it felt like we were in a rain forest. Dense brush, trees lining the road, and then the ocean in front of us.

We seem to be pretty much the only car on the road going this direction. We see a few more camper vans coming the other way but it is a great time to be here. The roads are empty. All the australians we meet and talk to seem to be doing the trip opposite of us. They went north first, then down the west coast, then the southern tip, then back up the east coast. We headed inland first, then down the east coast, then south, now up the west. We decided it's because in this part of the world the toilets flush counter clockwise so people must do thing counter clockwise and we do them the other way.

A few NZ musings:

About 90% of the bridges are one lane. As you approach, there is a big sign with arrows that shows who has the right of way. Why didn't they just make the bridges a tiny bit bigger and two lane?

Most of the NZ sweaters we have seen are a combination of merino wool and possum. we discovered that possums are hated here, brought on some ship, and they are eating native ducks and eggs. So there are possum traps everywhere. But what kind of hair does a possum have? And why would I want to wear a sweater with possum hair in it?

We wondered if there was a bounty or a reward for bringing in a dead possum or a Douglas fir.

As we headed up the west coast, there was just trees. No fields for once. No sheep. No farms. Just mile after mile after mile of dense brush and trees. Then out of no where there was a random fence adn on the fence was hanging bras. A lot of bras. Larry didn't want to stop for a picture but it was the most bizzare thing I have ever seen. Do people have spare bras to hang on this out of the way fence? I only brought one.

We are determined to find an ice cream store that sells hokey pokey ice cream. We read it was an NZ favorite with toffee bits in it. It's a tad early in the season but I am on a quest for a hokey pokey.

Speaking of treats, for today's lunch we picked out mint cookies that were fantastic!! They didn't even have a fancy NZ name like Razz ma Tazz or Goo Goo Gone. they were called Mint Treats. Imagine a Girl Scout thin mint with a puffy pillow of mint cream on top, then covered in dark chocolate. They were so good that we added a third hike today just so we could eat more for "energy".

We also found a chocolate bar called simply "Energy". It would be like finding a chocolate bar in the States called "Calories".

Practical tips from Larry:

Save all your grocery receipts as they give you four cents off liter of gas. So we save about $2.00 per fill up (gas is $1.60 a liter or $6.50 a gallon)

Eat dinner early and ask for the Backpackers special. it normally runs about $15 and you get vegetables and the beer is usually just $5.00 compared to $8.00.

We walked up to both the Fox Glacier and the Franz Joseph Glacier. They are both on the western side of Mt. Cook where we were our first day. You can see how torn up the ground is from where they receded and the tops of the glaciers are all grey and full of rock. They don't let you get very close unless you have a guide. We did hear and see helicopters and small planes fly over with people throughout the day. I imagine during the high season it is a constant drone.

It was a pretty fair walk up to the snout of the Franz Joseph glacier and while we stood there, huge chunks of rock would come crashing from off the glacier to the ground below. They said someone was killed by a chunk of ice a few years ago so they rope off the very face of it. (they call it a terminal)

Supposedly these two glaciers move three feet a year, either forwards or backwards. If they move forward, it's because of heavy snow pack from about five years ago. If they go back, it's due to drought a few years ago. The rocks in front of the glaciers as you walk up are all grey but they have really neat white stripes in them. Soom look like the white stripe was pressed in and the two grey halves glued on either side.

The weather is warmer now but low clouds are hanging over Mt cook. We did a scenic hike around Lake Matheson and every single bench and look out spot pointed to mt Cook but all we could see was a huge green mountain and then a big cloud. If it's clear up top tomorrow we may have another go at it before heading north.

I had a Radler with dinner tonight. I thought they only had those in Germany. It's a beer that's mixed with lemon lime. Sounds gross but is really refreshing. When the waitress came with our beers Larry said "Don't get them mixed up or I may have a sip of the girly beer and want to go shopping!"

We sat next to a German family today with a four year old and a baby. At the end of their meal the waitress asked in English "Would you like anything for dessert?" and the dad replied in English, "No thank you". Then the four year old said to his dad in German, "What did that lady ask you? did she ask if we wanted dessert?!" I thought that was funny. The dad answered the son quickly so I have no idea what excuse he gave.

Tomorrow we have to decide if we are heading inland again or trying to squeeze in some sight seeing up north in wine country. the distances aren't far but it takes a long time to get anywhere because of the curves, the speed, the mountain passes, etc. Can't imagine what it would be like with numerous tour buses in front and behind.

I'll let you know if get that Hokey-Pokey ice cream cone.